Since my first surf on an alaia about five years ago, I haven’t looked back. By no means is it an easy skill to master, but you’ll be hard pressed to find anything that gives you the same feeling of pure and utter freedom. It was like rediscovering surfing; the thrill and rush one gets from simply catching a wave and going straight down the line is something people quickly forget on a standard short board, but with an alaia, that’s all you really want. How performance-oriented you ride a wave means nothing–the simple fact of being separated by a mere 2-3 cm of wood with which you have managed to avoid, by all odds, from sliding out or pearling feels like a little miracle every time.
Here are my 5 tips that will make things a little bit easier for you:
1. Choose the right conditions/spot.Going out when it’s big and choppy or on a board that is 5’0, won’t bring you much more than frustration and will likely put you off for a long while. The ideal would be a clean, shoulder high, slow running wave that is front-side to you.
2. Get on the right board.To simplify it, what you are probably after is something around a 6’0 – 6’4. Contrary to what a lot of people think, more volume does not make paddling easier but only makes your walk to the beach heavier. Instead of going thicker, rather go wider with your board.
3. Know your weight.I don’t mean go stand on a scale. Make sure you distribute your weight correctly (this is key to catching waves). When paddling around, angle the board so that the tip of the nose pops out a bit when leaning slightly back. Now when the wave comes, push your chest down just as you start picking up speed and the wave will lift you up.
4. Watch the nose.As soon as you lose focus of the nose, you WILL pearl. Whenever you are changing direction, always keep more pressure on the back foot than you feel is right.
5. It’s all about the rail.Finless does not mean 360s. Yes, they are fun and fun is what it’s about, but you need use the rail to its full potential if you plan on going down the line. For this, you want to dig the rail in but you can only control the board by adjusting the weight distribution of your feet. If you want the tail to direct up, put less weight on the back, while using the front foot to keep the rail in the face.http://www.theinertia.com/surf/5-tips-for-surfing-an-alaia-from-someone-who-really-knows-how/
